Chains Marked (2 Dec 2010)

The chains have two check positions...the aligned marks in a previous photo and this position. To get this step correct I had to mark two links as the sprocket mark must land between two links.

Oil Slinger (2 Dec 2010)

The next step is to install the oil slinger. The Slinger fits with the raise section forward.

Top Dead Center (2 Dec 2010)

The final check before putting the front cover on is to verify TDC...the more precise you are with installing the chains and finding TDC, the better off the rest of the install will be.

Front Cover (2 Dec 2010)

I installed a new front seal in the front cover and fit it to the front of the block.

Water Pump (2 Dec 2010)

Next I bolted up the water pump, although not necessary, I placed sealer around the front cover water passage and used anti seize on all of the water pump bolts.

Crank Damper (2 Dec 2010)

With the front cover installed I torqued the crank damper on to 145 ft lbs. I held the crank in place with offset flywhel bolts on the opposite end. The pulley has 5 marks from 0 degrees to 20 with 5 degree increments. At TDC the pulley lined up perfect to the largest mark (O degrees).

Rebuilding the Oil Pump (3 Dec 2010)

I completely disassembled the oil pump and checked the gears...this also provides an easy access to ensure the screen is completely shaped.

Ready for Install (3 Dec 2010)

I prelubed the internals and gave it a few quick spins...the pump is ready to be installed.

Oil Pump In (3 Dec 2010)

With the block upside down, place the oil pump gasket on and slide the pump into position. I also installed a new oil pan gasket...I chose not to use the factory cork gasket and went instead with a thick reusable rubber one offered by Dean.

11:25 Drive Gear (3 Dec 2010)

This is another difficult U20 piece...after installing the oil pump you need to install the Dizzy drive gear. It should end as above (11:25 with the small lob forward). This step is critical to correct engine timing. If you set everything right during the chain install, the gear will drop into this position without problems.

Dizzy Support (3 Dec 2010)

To keep the drive gear in I installed the dizzy tower and while working that side of the block I installed all passenger side items.

Combustion Chamber (4 Dec 2010)

Since I rebuilt the bottom end, I really wanted to spend some time on the head. This is the combustion chamber on the U20 head all cleaned up.

Valve Guides (4 Dec 2010)

I purchased new valves and seats and had a machine shop do the initial cuts.

Valve Lapping (4 Dec 2010)

I lapped each valve prior to their final install.

Valve Lapped (4 Dec 2010)

After lapping the valve, the valve and seat get a dull finish where the compound makes the final "cut".

Intake Port (4 Dec 2010)

This is holding the gasket up to the head, this gasket came in a kit...it was really large and I wasn't going to open the port any more than I did, the good news the gasket that Dean sells with his headers was just right!

Valve Springs (5 Dec 2010)

After all of the valves were complete I installed the valve springs. I went with a comp spring. I purchased a press to do the brake rotors and it came in very handy to install the Nissan springs.

Solex Cam In! (5 Dec 2010)

After all of the springs were complete, I installed the Cam. The Solex cam has a higher lift/longer duration than the U20 standard cam. I simply put assembly lube on the cam towers and then torqued the caps. The cam should turn freely at this point. Since there are no rockers I simply set the cam to TDC (front lobs both up) and transferred the cam sprocket from the Evil L bracket.

Upper Chain Tensioner (5 Dec 2010)

Using the old zip tie trick, I lowered the upper chain tensioner into place.

Shimmed! (5 Dec 2010)

To ensure my chain always has tension I shimmed the tensioner so it can't compress back in...this is a new setup so there really isn't a lot of slack to take up. I used two washers which were ground flat at the back to ride evenly with the tensioners 'shoe'.

Rockers In! (5 Dec 2010)

I installed all rockers and their adjustment/jam nuts. I rough set them as they will will need a HOT clearance of Intake Valves = .0079 in and Exhaust valves =.0118 in.

Almost Done (6 Dec 2010)

Picking up where I left off. I test fit the manifolds yesterday, but decided I would move the engine as is on to a test stand and then bolt the additional parts on.

Last Items (6 Dec 2010)

Finishing up last items...I put anti sieze on the thermo housing bolts (these seem to be a problem area in older engines).

Thermo Gaskets (6 Dec 2010)

Use the correct gaskets for the thermostat...the two gaskets have a small metal staple that allows the thermo cover to ground so the temp gauge works correctly.

Ready for Transfer (6 Dec 2010)

All set...I installed my GB Dizzy (the engine was at TDC so I simply aligned the rotor per his easy to follow direction. I have had this Dizzy for awhile...been collecting for years). These EI Dizzy's are still available at East Coast Roadsters.

Roadster 5 Speed (7 Dec 2010)

This is the 5 speed that will go on this motor...I have new bearings and gaskets for it so it is due a workover. I will use a temp transmission and this one will go on when the engine is moved to the frame.

On Stand! (7 Dec 2010)

Ok, with the temp transmission attached I installed the engine on my test stand. Although I have a full comp flywheel (11.5 lbs), I chose to go with a modified one for this engine (17 lbs) vs. the stock one at 22.5 lbs. That is the nice thick manifold gasket that Dean offers.

Solex intake (7 Dec 2010)

I installed new ceramic coated headers from DatsunParts.com as well as a new gear reduction starter. Although not needed, the gear reduction starter is shorter than the standard starter (and looks darn good too). See Solex page for carb rebuild.

Late Solex (15 Dec 2010)

These are a set of late style Mikuni Solex 44 PHH carburetors found on the U20 Solex package engine. These are how they looked when I purchased the engine.

Early Solex (15 Dec 2010)

Early style Mikuni Solex 44 PHH ...note the two screws on the jet block. These are the type I should use on my 67.5, but again it's a clone and I was told the late are easier to work with, so I sold my early style.

Linkage (15 Dec 2010)

Solex carbs show up for sale, but the manifold and linkage can be difficult to source...one of the Roadster vendors made some beautiful reproduction Solex linkage (see vendor page).

Rebuild Kit (15 Dec 2010)

My carbs were very dirty, I considered a complete rebuild (if I had the $ I would have sent them to Todd at WCR), but since the butterflies and shafts were tight I chose to just purchase the rebuild kit from Dean as he provides an additional main gasket for the Roadsters carbs.

Dried up Fuel (15 Dec 2010)

I started by removing the jet blocks...it's hard to see in this bright photo, but there is lots of brown crusty junk at the bottom of the float chamber.

Starter Jet (15 Dec 2010)

Located at the bottom of the float chamber is a starter jet..mine was crusted over.

Nasty! (15 Dec 2010)

Well looking at the bottom of these carbs I can see why they ran so bad. The Solex carb has LOTS of small openings and ports and junk WILL block fuel flow...this is just years of old fuel and junk building up inside of these carbs.

Opposite Side (15 Dec 2010)

The same crud was on the bottom of both sides of the float bowl. Lots of Q tips, Pipe cleaners, and carb cleaner was used to clean these up.

Blocking Plate (15 Dec 2010)

This plate is installed on the opposite side of the float. The carbs look like they were designed to be front or back depending on where certain components are installed.

Pilot Screw (15 Dec 2010)

Rebuilding/restoring your own car certainly helps teach you about your parts. I found out there are actually two types of PHH carbs (homogeneous main system, and Independent main system) the two main systems are very obvious in the jet block area.

Accelerator Pump (15 Dec 2010)

When you stomp on the gas pedal the fuel tends to lean out...to combat this, the Solex carbs use an accelerator pump to inject addition fuel into the sytem. Here I am removing a REALLY small cotter pin from the pump rod.

What Can I Say? (15 Dec 2010)

Well since the accel pump is the lowest point on the carb all of the really nasty stuff settled and hardened here. I was actually removing chunks of foul smelling junk from this area.

Ready to Assemble (15 Dec 2010)

These are the major components in their basic order ready for reassembly. Notice all of the old dried fuel and junk have been completely eliminated.

Accel Pump (15 Dec 2010)

I installed new gaskets on the pump body.

Diaphragm (15 Dec 2010)

The diaphragm fits right into the pump cover.

Return spring (15 Dec 2010)

A spring is installed between the diaphragm and the pump body. I installed a new gasket and carefully compressed the set together.

Accel Pump Install (15 Dec 2010)

The pump is installed on the bottom of the carb. There are 3 holes on the pump rod that allow you to increase or decrease fuel flow (the middle hole is standard).

Pump Completed (15 Dec 2010)

While still keeping the pump assembly compressed I tightened all six screws to complete the assembly.

Jet Blocks (15 Dec 2010)

The Solex is tunable thru the changing of jets...there are several other things that can be changed out from starter jets to the venturi, but the three common adjustments are the Air, Main, and Pilot jets all located under the same convenient cover.

Float Cover (15 Dec 2010)

This is the underside of the float chamber cover.

Needle Valve (15 Dec 2010)

I purchased new needle valves for the floats. I was told the Solex carbs are finicky about their float level and the fuel pressure to them, so I'm being very careful in these areas.

Float Holder (15 Dec 2010)

This piece slides in from the top and holds the float from the underside. The spring is very stiff and the entire plate is actually part of the float adjustment sytem.

Float (15 Dec 2010)

I installed a new gasket and slide the float into postion. It simply installs on a pin and must be 12 to 12.5 mm from the cover.

Float Adjuster (15 Dec 2010)

With a new gasket I installed the adjuster for the float. The adjuster pushes the entire float plate down (the picture with the small silver spring).

Pump Nozzles (15 Dec 2010)

The rebuild kit comes with new o rings and washers for the pump nozzles, but man are they small!

Fuel Banjo (15 Dec 2010)

The kit also had new crush washers for the fuel banjo bolts. There are small screens inside of this inlet.

Done! (15 Dec 2010)

This is the carb complete...the small circle above the jet block cover is the starter circuit...the Solex does not have a choke, but instead uses a starter circuit. The starter disk simply has holes/bypasses that divert fuel behind the butterflies so the car starts...after the engine warms the fuel is returned back to the main system.

Installed! (20 Dec 2010)

I installed the carbs and they ran very lean (backfiring thru carb with 160 fuels/140 air/55 Pilot) I ordered a few new jet sizes from Todd at WCR and currently I am running 60 Pilots, 140 Fuels, and 190 Air (see video on engine page) I still have a small backfire...lots of popping in the exhaust, but I am going to wait to get the engine on the frame and get a full exhaust installed before I make anymore adjustments.

Ready to Run (27 Dec 2011)

After rebuilding the Solex carbs, I installed a temporary radiator/transmission/alternator/and a manual fuel pump...with some quick adjustments it started right up...now on to jetting the Solex's correctly.